Tag Archive for 'Buon Gusto'

More from Milan

Back from Milan and I’m more than a little excited about next winter’s collections.

Next winter will be all about shapes.  Among the best designers, the cuts are really interesting – slightly exaggerated, with a lot of shoulder, sleeve and pocket detailing.

I’ve included a few pictures we took to give you a flavour.

Detailing       Detailing2

And there’s a new take on fabrics – more modern and slightly heavier. Plain wool gabardine is largely absent; instead you’ll see stretch jerseys and stretch flannels.

4        5

Colours are interesting too: earth, terracotta, paprika, curry, sage, olive, walnut and, of course black.

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There’s a definite 80s spirit, but with the emphasis on BuonGusto – it’s more refined, not at all flashy.

With good fabrics and good manufacturing, next winter’s collections will look breathtaking.  Bordering on couture, but completely wearable.

Here’s the catch: you’ll be able to tell the difference if it’s done cheaply  – the new look will look extreme if it isn’t done right; and a good tailor on the shop’s premises is vital to ensure it fits you perfectly.

This means that it will be even more important than usual to interpret what the fashion press tells you. The cut and the cloth are what makes clothes expensive and these are both integral to next season’s style.

The difference in fit between the mass produced brands (even at the top end) most heavily featured in the press and the best hand-finished clothes will be particularly noticeable bearing in mind that we are not all size 10.

More than ever, less is more will be the way to go.  You’ll be looking at one or two good pieces that can be used in lots of different ways.  More on that in another post.

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Buon Gusto

I’m in Milan – buying for next Winter.

The word on the Italian fashion industry’s lips this season is: Buon Gusto.  It’s the idea that is driving thinking among the best Italian designers; and, while it’s already starting to come through this Spring/Summer season, going forward it’s going to really dominate the fashion world.

Literally, Buon Gusto means good taste.  It’s about not being flashy, not about labels or logos.  It’s about beautiful fabrics and “appreciative glances from men and other women”.

This Winter season is going to be a good one – I’m particularly excited about the shapes – there’s a real sense of drama, a definite 80s spirit but a more refined, more architectural look. 

More to follow on this when I get back.

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